What could be more beautiful than Osaka Castle in autumn?

By on November 5, 2019
osaka-castle

photo by Hyde blog

Travel with children takes time. Working in Japan fresh out of university, my husband and I spent our weekends exploring, guidebooks in hand. We could easily cover “several pages” in a day, and be ready for an entirely new chapter the next.

With children, we are experiencing Japan at a much slower pace, which, surprisingly, is proving even more rewarding. On a weekend trip to Osaka, we carefully culled our sightseeing to make it a happy rather than hectic holiday. Deciding on contrast, we chose something of historic importance, and something very fun and futuristic.

The obvious choice for history is Osaka Castle. The original castle was built in the 1580s on the orders of famed Toyotomi Hideyoshi – the first person to unify Japan under his command. After vicious power struggles between loyal Toyotomi followers and the powerful Tokugawa Clan, who had established the shogunate government in Edo, the Tokugawas emerged victorious, and claimed Osaka Castle until it was burnt down in the battle with imperial forces during the Meiji Restoration of 1868.

osaka-castle-2

photo by Hyde Blog

The present replica of Osaka Castle was built in 1931, and like most Japanese castles, the exterior is restored to represent the original, while the modern interior operates as a museum with maps and historical displays. The grounds, although only a fraction of the original, are extensive, with wide moats and massive stone walls—great for firing up children’s imaginations of life in feudal times. Osaka Castle is beautiful year-round, but the most photographed season is definitely spring, when the cherry blossoms create postcard perfect frames of the castle from every angle.

In sharp contrast to the historical side of Osaka is the futuristic Umeda Sky Building. This is the place to get your bird’s eye view of Osaka, and to appreciate the city in all its modernity. The Umeda Sky Building is unmistakable. Twin 40-story towers of glass and steel are connected by glass-enclosed escalators and a “floating observation garden” on the top floors.

The observation platform is on two levels: One is indoors, with clear views through tinted glass of the maze of rivers and bridges that connect Osaka, and the other platform is outdoors – the signs instructing visitors to hold onto their hats are there for a reason! By day, the views of Osaka are amazing; by night the scene becomes magical, when the floor of the observation deck is lit with “twinkling stars,” while the real ones shine above. This is the place to connect 21st century Osaka with its history, as you can see Osaka Castle lit by illuminations amidst the dense urban city scene. Stunning and spectacular would best describe the view. Don’t miss the basement of the Umeda Sky Building, home to Takimi Koji street, a replica of the winding alleyways of Showa period Japan. It may look like a museum, but these are real, enticing eateries offering a variety of Japanese foods.
Speaking of foods, it would be impossible to talk about Osaka without mentioning its famous dish: okonomiyaki. Okonomi roughly translates to “what you like,” and yaki is “grilled.” You can definitely grill what you like in these savory pancakes—a batter to which you add seafood, meats, cabbage and other vegetables. Osaka has many okonomiyaki restaurants—ask at your hotel for a recommendation nearby. You can either have the okonomiyaki cooked for you, or, much more fun, choose a restaurant where you can cook your own, with a grill in the center of the table, and the batter and ingredients ready for your family to “grill what you like.”

When it’s time to return to Tokyo, if luck is on your side, (and you’re sitting on the left side of the train!), you might end your trip with a view of Mt. Fuji. The trip will then have combined some of the “Best of Japan” for your family: history and modernity, Osaka cuisine, the amazing travel experience of riding aboard the shinkansen, and hopefully a glimpse of one of the world’s most recognized mountains. We may have only covered two pages of the guidebooks, but we certainly packed a punch for a weekend adventure.

Umeda Sky Building
1-1-88 Oyodo-naka, Kita-ku. Open daily10am-10:30pm Nearest Sta: JR Osaka or Umeda. (06) 6440-3901. www.skybldg.co.jp

Osaka Castle
1-1 Osakajo, Chuo-ku. Open daily 9am-5pm,
Nearest Sta: Osakajo-koen. (06) 6941-3044.
www.osakacastle.net/english/

About Kate Hudson